This is a great article:

Beware AKC Registration by Charlie Petrizzo (Notes) on Wednesday, May 1, 2013 at 1:35pm

Cross Post:

While watching the news this morning a segment came on about a woman who purchased a dog from an AKC registered breeder. The dog ended up having all kinds of health problems and the owner took it up with the AKC because the breeder from whom she purchased the dog was an AKC registered breeder.

Let me address this issue from a couple of angles. First, the AKC is nothing more than an organization that documents and memorializes the birth of a litter of pups. They know absolutely nothing about the health of those dogs and while they do have “inspectors” who visit breeders that are AKC registered, some of the facilities they do register are what you would refer to as puppy mills, and backyard breeders. The first sign of such a place is a breeder that has puppies for sale every single day of the year. If you find this with a breeder you are considering, run as fast as you can in the other direction.

Let me explain what the AKC is in another way. The AKC is the organization that prints birth certificates for pure bred dogs. Do you have a birth certificate? Where did it come from? What does it tell the person who reads it about you other than when and where you were born, a bit about your mother and father and perhaps a bit about your physical characteristics? Does your birth certificate attest to you being in good health, if your parents have good health, if your family has any genetic propensities that you might inherit? NO! Well neither does the AKC registration for a puppy. The only thing AKC papers tell you is that the parents were registered with them as pure bred dogs of a particular breed, who the breeder was, and again certain physical characteristics.

Now, excuse my extreme bluntness here. Given the problem of canine overpopulation it is ignorant to purchase a dog simply because it has AKC papers. If you do this you are part of the cause of canine overpopulation. You are potentially supporting backyard breeders, puppy mills or a person who bred their dog because, in their words “she/he is the sweetest dog ever”. “Sweetest dog ever”compared to what, and what credentials allow you to make that statement “she is the sweetest dog ever”.

There are many good reasons to own pure bred dogs. Chief amongst these reasons is that you know exactly what you are getting in terms of temperament and physical appearance. That is, if you purchase your pure bred dog through a responsible breeder. If you don’t do the legwork to ensure that you are purchasing a puppy from a responsible breeder than you don’t need a pure bred dog because it is highly likely that the pup you get will fall far short of the breed standard both in physical conformation and temperament.

The Labrador retriever is the most popular breed the United States. When I take my 8 and 9 week old pups out to places like Petsmart people are amazed at their calmness. Why? My pups are nothing more than pups bred to meet the breed standard. Here’s the answer, and excuse what will appear as a lack of humility on my part: Because most of the Labrador retrievers people are seeing these days are poorly bred, coming from people who have no idea how to properly assess a sire/dam cross or even whether the sire or dam should be contributing to the future gene pool of the breed. The Labrador retriever is not a hyper breed, it is a gentlemen’s hunting dog that is as happy at its master’s feet while he is reading a book as it is out in the field hunting a game bird, when properly bred. The “hyper” stigma is the result of breeders who breed, not to the standard, but will breed anything they can because it breathes and has an AKC registration, or because, while the dog may look like a greyhound in physical appearance it will hunt like mad. It is those people who breed the dog despite it looking nothing like or acting nothing like the Labrador of the breed standard but simply because it hunts that perpetuate the hyper lab stigma. Heck a cocker spaniel hunts too, should I call it a Labrador retriever?

The other question I get asked all the time is “what kind of dog is that”? This question really illustrates for me the depths to which this wonderful breed, the top breed for over 20 years, has been damaged by indiscriminate breeding or breeders who don’t breed to the standard but simply because the dog hunts. The reason I get asked this question is because our pups have the hallmark “blocky” heads and thick bone, which, are all part of the Labrador retriever club standard and the AKC standard for the breed. If people have to ask what type of dog the pup is and the pup approximates the breed standard very well, and this is the most popular breed in the country for some twenty years running, what does that tell you has happened to this great breed?

It tells me it is being seen more and more in a look that does not match the Labrador retriever standard. The reason for this is very simple. Again, it is because the purchasing public does not do its homework. They purchase pups that don’t come close to what a Labrador retriever is in appearance or temperament. This perpetuates the continued breeding of dogs that minimally reflect what a Labrador should look and act like.

What is a responsible breeder? First, their dogs will definitely be AKC registered, but that is a bare minimum. They are AKC registered because the AKC is the largest breed registry in the world and the public has become familiar with the organization. However, its not the AKC registration that will tell you the quality of the dog.

Information about the quality of the dog comes from a variety of sources. Some of them include the breeders facility and how the dogs are housed and maintained, the breeders experience and knowledge of the breed, the breeders purpose for breeding and the pedigree.

The pedigree is among the most important pieces of information the breeder can provide. Why? The pedigree will reveal how many of the pup’s ancestors are champions. A champion dog is a dog that has been evaluated relative to its breed standard by professionals. At conformation shows judges, who are experts in a breed, evaluate each dog relative to the standard. They then choose the dog in the ring that most closely reflects a dog’s exactness to the breed standard. A dog that becomes a champion has to win many shows.

Some may say ” but that doesn’t tell me anything about the dog’s temperament or intelligence. Oh, no? If a complete stranger (i.e., the judge) walks up to a dog and sticks its hands underneath the dog to ascertain if both of its testicles have descended and then grabs its mouth, opens it and checks its teeth for a correct bite and the dog stands quietly while allowing this, I would say that dog is exhibiting an intuitive intelligence and great temperament.

Every breeder, even the most responsible will have pups that develop health problems. Breeders are not God. However, good breeders take measures to minimize the incident of known genetic problems that the breed may encounter. Recently one of our dams had her second litter of pups. One of the pups in the litter had a heart murmur. The owners decided that they wanted to keep the pup. Several weeks later the murmur had gotten worse. It turned out the murmur was a grade 5-6 murmur and that the pup had Tricuspid Valve Dysplasia, a heart defect that is seen more often then others in Labrador retrievers. This despite the fact that both the sire and dam had hearts that were clear by auscultation. I as the breeder was heartbroken that this family had to deal with this pain from a pup I brought into this world to bring joy to another family.

When we offer a pup for sale to a qualified home we tell the owner to take it to a vet immediately to have it examined. If there is anything wrong with the pup, as much as a sniffle, we will take it back, no questions asked and return the purchase price. That means pup’s with health problems must come back to me, the breeder. Therefore, I must have the facilities, the space and the financial wherewithal to be able to care for this pup that I brought into the world for as long as it may live with this condition. It also means I have to be able to care for any other pup that might encounter a medical problem that a family cannot handle. Does the breeder you purchased your dog from have the facilities and finances to care for sick pups he may breed or, will he pawn them off on shelters and humane societies asking taxpayers to bear the burden of his inability to do so? This is what backyard breeders do. Ask the breeder you are considering if they take back any and all pups that have medical conditions or behavioral problems that an owner cannot deal with. If they say no, run the other way.

Thankfully, the help of a great mentor, our research and breeding practices have resulted in very, very few problems over the years. We are also very “picky” about who we will sell a puppy to. This ensures that our pups are going to good homes.

Please do yourself and everyone else in society a favor if you are going to buy a purebred dog. Do not purchase a pup simply because it has AKC papers! Do not purchase a pup because it is the breed you want at the price you want. That is a problem waiting to happen. Well bred dogs cost what they do for a reason and much of it has to do with the genetic testing that the parents undergo to minimize potential health problems in a litter. For the most part it is wise to stay away from the pups advertised in newspaper ads. Be extremely wary of the internet. Its very easy to make yourself look like a great breeder on the internet. If you can’t travel to the facility or get a video of the dogs out and about at the facility do not purchase a pup from the breeder. Do not purchase a pup from a breeder that just wanted to have a litter from their girl because she was so special. Do not purchase a pup from a breeder if you cannot see the mother and if possible any other pups she may have had. You do not have to physically see the sire ( shipped semen is now common among responsible breeders) but you should be given the owner of the sire’s information so that you can make an inquiry about him if you want to do so.

The problem of canine overpopulation and unhealthy pure bred dogs is not the fault of the AKC. It is the fault of the public. No where is the old Latin adage “caveat emptor” more appropriate than in the purchasing of a pure bred dog. Be part of the solution to end canine overpopulation and indiscriminate breeding, not the problem. Do your homework, ask probing questions of the breeder, do not have a puppy shipped to you, visit the breeder. If the general public would follow this advice slowly but surely puppy mills and backyard breeders will go the way of the dinosaur.

Patty

www.snowcolabradors.com

Also know as EIC.

“This inherited disease is common in Labrador Retrievers, but is also found in other breeds, including Curly-Coated and Chesapeake Bay Retrievers, Boykin Spaniels, German Wirehaired Pointers, Old English Sheepdogs, Cocker Spaniels and Pembroke Welsh Corgis.”

This disease was seen in working dogs; American/Field bred Labs years ago but no one knew what it was.

It is now being seen in English/Bench bred Labs.

The dog will be working in the field or doing many retrieves and it suddenly (5-20 minutes of work) has a breakdown.  The back end collapses and the dog will try to keep moving dragging the back legs.

The dog recuperates quickly with no side effects.  Many people who don’t know about this genetic disease think their dog is suffering from heat stroke, which can exhibit similar symptoms.

We now have a genetic test for Labradors which can be done thru the U of Minnesota.

If a dog is a “carrier” it must be bred to a “clear” dog to prevent pups from being “effected” by this disease.

The test can be done by blood draw or a cheek swab (both must be done by a vet) and the samples are sent into the U of MN for results.  The cost from MN is only $65 on top of your vet charge for taking the sample by either means.

Here is the link to find out more about the testing and what breeds there is a genetic test for.

http://www.vdl.umn.edu/

Patty

www.snowcolabradors.com

There are breeders who worm their litters at 2, 4, 6 and 8 weeks of age.

I feel this is overkill.

While it is true that most pups are/can be born with worms – they get them in utero – it has not been the case in my litters for many years.

It can all depend on the environment pups are born and raised in.

Out in a kennel, a barn, etc…… where wild animals are rampant you can have a better chance of wormy pups.

My litters are born in my home and I do not have a lot of wild animals in my yard.

Therefore, my worming protocol is around 5 and 7 weeks of age.

I have found 2 worming is enough for my pups.  This has been proven with my past litters when the pup buyer takes their pup for their initial 72 hour health check at their vet which includes a fecal check.

I worm my pups with Strongid at 1 ml per 10 pounds of weight.  Weigh each pup just prior to worming.  If the pup is 5 lbs use .5 ml of Strongid.  If the pup is 5 1/2 lbs than I go by the 6 lb mark and use .6 ml of Strongid.

When I do the final worming of pups at 7 weeks of age I also worm the Dam/mother with Panacur.  That also goes by weight and is done 3 days in a row.

Note never worm pups 3 days in a row.  Just the adult Dam/mother.

If you see your pups passing worms than you may consider a third worming.

I also have a fecal done when my pups have their 8 week health check by my  vet just prior to going to their new homes to rule out any worms, coccidia or giardia.

Patty

www.snowcolabradors.com

First be sure there is not a medical issue such as a blockage.  A pup or dog that will not settle down at night could be a sign of a blockage or other issue.

Labrador pups do not like it hot.  When my litters won’t settle down at nap time and are crying here is what I do:

Take small towels (dish size) and run under cold water.  Wring out and store in the fridge.

Freeze plastic bottles of water and store in freezer.

Lay towels out in the whelping box or crate and the pups will flop down on their bellies and go right to sleep.

The water bottles work well for pups to lay on or sleep up against to also help them stay cool

Here is a pick :  Scroll down to Jazz/Roger litter

http://www.snowcolabradors.com/puppies.htm

Patty

www.snowcolabradors.com

I start my litters on puppy food at around 3 1/2 weeks of age.  Bitch is still nursing as she wants to.

I start slow to avoid loose stools.  I feed Orijen so I start with 1/4 cup per puppy.

This is for a litter of 8:  Soak 2 cups kibble in water till soft.  Put it in the blender and add 1/4  cup baby rice cereal (helps avoid loose stools).  Blend well to make a semi thick mush adding tepid water as needed.

Feed pups and see how much they eat.  Do this once a day for a couple of days and up to 2 feedings a day.  Slowly increase the amount per pup by going up 1/4 cup intervals.  And get them up to 3 meals a day.

The amount you feed will be determined by how they eat.  I like to have a bit left in the bowl so I know they are getting enough.

At around 6 weeks of age I stop blending and just mash a bit with a potato masher.  Adding rice or  not is determined by firmness of stools.

Eventually I feed just soaked kibble and serve.  Once I know there is no choking during eating I feed kibble with tepid water added (no soaking)

By the time my pups go to their forever homes at 8 1/2 weeks they are eating 3/4 – 1 cup  3 times per day.

Patty

www.snowcolabradors.com

I had this with my current litter.  They had good solid stools from birth and on day 2 started with loose watery stools.

A soft stool initially that is mustard colored and looks like a bit of milk curd is normal from the mothers milk.  However my pups started to get very watery.  Stool samples on such young pups will not show anything according to my vet.  They also would not be born with coccidia or giardia; that is something they would pick up in the yard.  My pups are raised in my home and don’t go outside till about 4 1/2 weeks of age.

I contacted www.Lambertvetsupply.com  (recommended to me by a breeder friend) and spoke with Shanon and the vet on staff.

Bene-Bac was recommended.  This is a probiotic for new borns and other age pups.

I followed the dosage advice of the vet at 1/2 mg per pup 2x /day for 3-5 days, as opposed to the dosage on the syringe because I had this issue going on for about 4-5 days already.  Once I had solid stools continue for 1 day.

In 4 days they were solid and have been ever since.  They are now 4 weeks old.

I have also started them on puppy food/blended with baby rice cereal.  I feed Orijen and it is not uncommon to get loose stools when you introduce food, especially a high protein high fat formula.  I started at 1/4 cup per pup and they have had good solid stools.  I attribute this to the Bene-Bac.

Patty

www.snowcolabradors.com

In the past I have trained my litters with the artificial grass.  While it worked well it was a lot of work to clean up from a litter of pups.  The grass needed to be hosed down and than soaked in clorox and water to disinfect and then rinsed, drained and left to dry.

I am trying a new method with the litter of pups I have on the ground now.  I know a number of breeders doing this with great results.

Use a litter pan that is 3″ high.  Size of pan depends on the size of your litter.  I have a litter of 8 pups so a 30″ x 30″ pan works well.

Fill the pan with horse pine pellets (tractor supply carries them and they are cheap).  If you can not get these near you, you can use feline pine pellets.  Be sure and buy the “non clumping” formula.

http://www.petco.com/product/115187/Planet-Petco-Natural-Pine-Pellet-Cat-Litter.aspx?CoreCat=OnSiteSearch

You will need to scoop the pan like you would for a cat litter box and change the pellets about every 3 days.

When you start feeding your pups food, wait till they are done eating.  Remove the food pan and place the litter pan in the box.  Keep a close eye on the pups and when you see one start to squat pick it up and place it in the pan.  It may climb out and look for another spot in the box because the pan is foreign to them.

Pick that pup up again when it starts to go and place it back in the pan.  Eventually they get it.

Be diligent and they will catch on.  Mine are catching on quick.  First day with pan and some are using it on their own already.

You will notice the pellets break down to dust.  This happens when urine hits it.  This is normal.

My concern at first was that pups would eat the pellets but if they have just been fed and have full bellies when you start the training this should not be a problem.  The pellets do not swell when they get wet, they break down so they will not swell in the belly if a pup ingests a few.

These were originally designed for horses as bedding.  The horse pellets are poured on the floor of the stall and water is added to create saw dust bedding (like shavings, which many horse people use).  But the pellets are easier for cleaning the stall.

I hope this info is helpful to anyone out there with a litter of pups.  It sure makes for easier clean up when they learn to use the pan rather than going all over their bedding.

Patty

www.snowcolabradors.com